Nirmal Purja’s ascent of all fourteen 8,000m peaks: why is it controversial?

Nirmal Purja’s ascent of all fourteen 8,000m peaks: why is it controversial?

Last week was one of those weeks when a mountaineering story is so big that it makes it into the popular press. On the face of it, it was a straightforward story of someone smashing a record to smithereens. But if you dig a little deeper, there is another side to it.

Read more

Is it time to boycott the south side of Everest?

Is it time to boycott the south side of Everest?

The problems which occurred on Everest this year are nothing new, but they have now reached such a degree that it’s time for operators who value their reputation and for those who dream of climbing Everest to take a principled stand.

Read more

How to verify a Manaslu summit claim

How to verify a Manaslu summit claim

There was another big controversy on Manaslu this year. It was widely reported that record numbers reached the summit, but it now appears that a problem with the rope fixing meant that the majority didn’t reach the main summit at all, but one of the two foresummits.

Read more

Are western operators right to complain about cheap Nepali operators on Everest?

Are western operators right to complain about cheap Nepali operators on Everest?

Western operators say cheap Nepali operators who employ inexperienced Sherpas are making Everest more dangerous. There are two sides to this issue, and I will do my best to outline both as I provide the commercial client’s perspective.

Read more