The Rhinogs: Snowdonia’s best kept secret

There are some hillwalking routes in the UK that everybody knows about, and in good weather are certain to be jam-packed with walkers, while others very close seem to remain known to connoisseurs only. I remember once being all alone on the knife edge ridge of the CMD arete on Ben Nevis, only to emerge on a summit heaving with walkers who had trudged up the usual boring tourist route.

Walkers on Diffwys' summit ridge, with the Irish Sea to the right
Walkers on Diffwys’ summit ridge, with the Irish Sea to the right

A man at the top was amazed when he saw me arrive. “I didn’t realise there was another way up here!” he remarked. Of course there’s another way up. A mountain has many sides, but the surprising thing is how many people don’t consider this obvious fact.

Snowdon in north Wales is another example. It’s a fantastic mountain, there’s no question of that, but everyone knows it, and in this case most of its routes, even the adventurous knife edge ridge of Crib Goch, will have large numbers of walkers on them on a sunny day.

A few miles south, however, is a pair of wild and beautiful secret gems: The Rhinogs. A compact range of hills, the Rhinogs include the rolling grassy hills of Diffwys and Y Llethr at their southern end, a broad ridge whose most notable feature is a dry stone wall running along its entire length. This gentleness ends abruptly north of Y Llethr, where a sudden change of scenery opens out into one of those views that make you want to sit down and take it all in before walking any further. A steep descent leads down to the deep blue lake Llyn Hywel, beyond which the twin summits of Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr rise steeply in layers of granite slabs. The view is enhanced significantly by the lighter blue of the Irish Sea ever present a short distance away to the west.

Panorama of the Irish Sea, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach across Llyn Hywel, from Y Llethr
Panorama of the Irish Sea, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach across Llyn Hywel, from Y Llethr

These are tough hills to climb, as I discovered the weekend before last when I decided to embark on a two day backpacking adventure traversing the ridge from south to north, before dropping down to camp on the shores of a hidden lake nestling between folds of lower foothills, from where I returned to my car the following day across a series of varied ridges.

It was warm and sunny, and two litres of water were never going to be enough when combined with the exertions of carrying a heavy pack. I made good time over Diffwys and Y Llethr, but the ‘path’ up Rhinog Fach involved climbing steeply on jagged boulders. Another backpacker I passed had left his pack at the bottom and elected to scramble up this section unencumbered. I pressed onwards and enjoyed a satisfying sandwich on the summit looking north to my final summit of the day, Rhinog Fawr. It was only 2.30, but it would be another six hours before I staggered into camp.

Rhinog Fawr seen across heather from beneath Rhinog Fach
Rhinog Fawr seen across heather from beneath Rhinog Fach

I’ve written before about the pros and cons of walking off piste, and the Rhinogs are not hills for a walker who insists on using a path. This is some of the roughest terrain in the UK, with established paths pretty much non-existent. There are many crags on the northern side of Rhinog Fach, and I had to find a route between them over rough boulders and heather to a col 400m below the summit. It’s treacherous terrain where ankles can easily be twisted, either on unstable rocks or among clumps of heather. A good sense of balance is essential, especially when carrying a large pack, as I was. I had forgotten to bring water purification tablets, and as I nursed the last of my two litres of water it was frustrating passing a number of stagnant pools where I might have replenished my stock. Better to have a parched mouth than an uncomfortable bout of the squitters, however, for there’s too much pollution and disease in UK waters to drink water from any of these sources untreated.

The valley between the two Rhinogs was soft and boggy, with clumps of tufted grass carpeting its floor. Rhinog Fawr rose up above me threateningly. There was no obvious route up and I would have to pick a line up across jagged boulders more or less at random. I struggled to force down a sandwich, so dry was my throat as I finished the last of my water, but I lay down on the grass and enjoyed a blissful half hour’s sleep in the blazing sun before moving on. It was 4.30 when I continued, and and almost immediately I had wet feet after putting a whole leg through a hidden hole in the grassy bogland. But a short way up the flanks of Rhinog Fawr, just before the grass gave way to heather, I jumped across a narrow stream to the sound of rushing water. This part of the stream looked deliciously fresh and clean as the soft grass leached out pollutants from the water. I lay down and filled both my water bottles from a cascade that looked cleanest. I was taking a risk, I knew, but I still had a long hot climb ahead of me, and several hours of walking before I reached camp. I swug thirstily from my bottles and refilled them. It was beautiful, and although it would be many hours before I could confirm the water was clean, it turned out to be a risk worth taking.

It was another treacherous climb up Rhinog Fawr. There didn’t seem to be any alternative to steep boulder hopping, but I tried to steer clear of the clumps of heather, where twisting an ankle seemed most likely. The sun continued to burn relentlessly, and I had to stop regularly to rest, drink, and take the pack off my shoulders. Towards the summit I climbed above the rocks and the gradient gave way gently into slopes of dry heather, and it was a welcome relief when I reach the summit cairn at 6pm, 3½ hours after leaving the summit of Rhinog Fach. The two summits are barely two kilometres apart.

Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr seen during the ascent of Rhinog Fawr
Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr seen during the ascent of Rhinog Fawr

But the feeling of being all alone in the wilderness after the satisfaction of completing some physical exertion was worth it. To the north Snowdonia’s main summits ran across the horizon in a line of hazy silhouettes, while to the west the Lleyn Peninsula and Irish Sea were once again in view, just a short stone’s throw away. And behind me to the south Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr reminded me of where I’d come from that day.

The northern side of Rhinog Fawr is perhaps a little friendlier than the southern one, and I was even able to make out some semblance of a path from time to time, but even so it was a tiring descent across heather clad slopes for the first hour and a half of it until I reached the man-made stone pavement known as the Roman Steps, where a comfortable path took me down to my campsite on the shores of Llyn Cwm Bychan. I staggered into it at 8.30 after 12 hours of walking up and down difficult terrain with a heavy pack. It was a mistake to come here instead of camping wild on the other side of the lake, though. Although there were toilets, these did not compensate for the noise of neighbouring campers playing their radios in this otherwise peaceful location. But I slept well that night in any case.

My return journey the following day, skirting the western shoulders of these same hills, was interesting too, and although there was nothing to compare with that epic journey between the summits of the Rhinogs, there were plenty of climbs and descents to keep the knees and leg muscles tested. When I reached my car after another 9 hours of walking I had to apologise to a man who tried to engage me in conversation as I arrived, as I needed to rest and get my breath back before I could face talking to anyone.

Of course, not everyone has to carry a big rucksack like I did, but even so the Rhinogs are rough and difficult mountains, but for those who don’t mind a spot of exertion for the reward of getting off the beaten track where few other walkers can be seen, they’re well worth a look. They’re also incredibly beautiful, with great diversity of scenery along the way.

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14 thoughts on “The Rhinogs: Snowdonia’s best kept secret

  • June 10, 2014 at 8:36 pm

    Hi mark
    I was planning a trek in snowdonia. I wanted something a little differrnt. Then I just happened along your site.
    I will head for the rhinog hills.
    You’ve made up my mind.
    I will attempt the route. I will let you know how I got on.
    Cheers mate. Kev
    Water purification a must.

  • June 11, 2014 at 6:56 am

    Blimey, a comment on a post from 3 years ago! Thanks, Kevin, for bringing back some good memories and enjoy your trek. The Rhinogs are great. 🙂

  • June 17, 2014 at 12:26 am

    Hi, is it safe to park a car for overnight at Craigddu-isaf (off the A470). I am planing for a walk to Rhinogs Fawr and do wild camp near by Llyn Du. Many thanks

  • June 18, 2014 at 9:53 am

    I don’t know, but I parked on a side road off the A496 and it seemed safe enough.

  • June 9, 2015 at 9:42 am

    Hi Mark,

    i found the Rhinogs last year and it looked very intimidating but also beautiful too. I didn’t get chance to attempt them due to very bad weather but it’s on my to-do list after I’ve climbed Snowdon this year.

    You sound like you’ve had an amazing time up there. I’ll be bringing some water purification tablets that’s for sure!

  • September 16, 2015 at 8:44 pm

    Going back again this year – Crib Goch is great but thee mountains are as you say without the hoards.

  • December 6, 2016 at 2:22 pm

    The Cambrian Grit region of the Harlech Dome with the magnificent Rhinog Mountains is a treaure of the remote = a sactuary for birds and only for truly creative humans—- away from the bustle and noise of big cities, where one only hears falling wate, the wind gusts and bir-song
    Bryan Cyril Thurston architect artist poet RIBA SWB

  • August 25, 2017 at 4:10 pm

    This very unfrequented area of Western Snowdonia, really merits a day when the clouds are high, and the sun is shinning.

    The view from the summit of Diffwys, towards Cadair Idris and beyond, are so magnificent, that to miss it would be a big shame.

    Its probably one of the quietest areas of the National Park, when you consider only a few miles down the road, Cadair Idris will be busy.

  • December 19, 2017 at 8:38 pm

    I climbed Moelfre and Y Llethr on 18/12/2017 – a superb sunny, dry day with no wind offering staggering views across Tremadog Bay to the Lleyn and also snow-capped Snowdon. I have known the Rhinogs for years but had forgotten how tough the terrrain can be. The descent from Y Llethr, to Lynn Hywel and down to the Nantcol is quite tricky. What a fantastic place.

  • January 31, 2018 at 11:19 am

    Hi Mark

    I have been planning to take a similar route across the Rhino’s. Which route did you take onto Diffwys?



  • February 6, 2018 at 10:41 am

    The trail up from the forest on the east side that reaches the ridge at the point marked 688 on the OS map.

  • Pingback:Rhinog Traverse from Talsarnau to Barmouth - smarterfitter

  • July 12, 2018 at 7:52 pm

    Living in nearby Dyffryn, it has taken me an age to explore the Northern flanks of these ancient mountains, and it was only recently, in 30C temperatures of the 2018 June heatwave, that i have visited the majestic Bryn Cader Vaner burial cairn.

    Parking just above Talysarn, this was an alien country to me, even though ive lived in Dyffryn for nearly seven years, and the view of the Moel Ysgarfarnogod ridge off to my right, was ever so tempting.

    On July 5th 2018, i returned, in still crazy temperatures, sun beating down on my brow, and the severity of what is named ” The Welsh Badlands” took me by surprise.

    Ive read many an account of the severity of these northerly peaks of the Harlech Dome, and looked at many photographs, but not until you have seen them, experienced them for yourself, can you imagine how rough and tuff these most ancient of Cambrian landscape really are.

    I hindsight, i was a bit daft attempting them alone, as i saw not a single person all day long, and that heather and bracken, what a nightmare, and the intense concentration at all times, as there are countless chasms below your feet, mostly water corses flowing underground, but totally invisible from above.

    If you only include the Northern peaks of Ysgafarnogod, Rhinog Fawr and Fach, then distances are not that great, but throw away your estimated time for completion of all three, as a journey that normally takes two or three hours, say in the Carneddau, will take many hours longer.

    The famous complete traverse all the way to the town of Barmouth, roughly 22miles distant, will take many hours, and with few clean water sources available in these hills, taking enough water could be a problem.

    In a way, its a good thing that the Rhinogs remain a complete mystery to your average visitor to Snowdonia, as it would be extremely easy to come to grief amongst these mountains.

    Probably best they remain a hidden secret, and only visited by those in the know, as the severity of the terrain in the north, cannot really be imagined or visualised, they have to be experienced first hand.

  • Pingback:Rhinog Traverse from Talsarnau to Barmouth - Eat Sleep Wild

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