While I was busy publishing last week’s blog post, physicist Dr Melanie Windridge, who climbed Everest in 2018, published this short educational video that describes five surprising facts about Everest in a way that’s fun, educational and accessible all in one.Read more
How to recover from a big altitude misjudgement
Acclimatisation is a funny thing. On the face of it, it seemed like we had a good plan. After a full day acclimatising at 2850m in Quito, we would climb a 4258m volcano followed by a 4640m volcano. Then weRead more
A doctor’s advice on surviving the death zone
I was recently approached by Dr Jeremy Windsor, one of the doctors who climbed Everest as part of the Caudwell Xtreme Everest Expeditions. Jeremy has started up a new blog called Surviving the Death Zone to promote interest in high-altitude medicine.Read more
Flashing on Everest: is it worth the money?
Last month I examined the practice of climbing Everest in a shorter period of time by acclimatising at home and using larger quantities of oxygen during the climb. In this week’s follow up post, I take a look at the cost of these expeditions.Read more
Flashing on Everest: is it safe or sensible?
Many teams climbed the north side of Everest this season, but two seemed to get the lion’s share of the attention. These two teams were using new techniques to shorten their expeditions. But was their approach sensible or effective? Let’s have a look.Read more
Everesting on Everest: how mountaineers differ from endurance cyclists
Everesting involves repeatedly cycling up and down a hill until you’ve ascended the height of Everest. I read an interesting article about Everesting on the Tibetan side of Everest, that shed light on how poorly adapted endurance training is for altitude.Read more
Is acclimatising at home the future of Himalayan mountaineering?
The American operator Alpenglow is pioneering a new approach to Himalayan mountaineering with its Rapid Ascent trips. These expeditions are unaffordable to most ordinary people, but I believe it won’t be long before cheaper operators follow suit.Read more
Aconcagua and a first taste of expedition life: an extract from my book
It’s time to update you once more on current progress with the book I’m threatening to publish about my journey from simple hill walker to Everest summiteer. Here’s the latest, along with a teaser from the book to try and convince you to buy it.Read more
Book review: Everest The First Ascent by Harriet Tuckey
There has been a flurry of books about Everest published this year to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the first ascent. This one stands out because it challenges many widely held beliefs and provides a very different perspective of the 1953 expedition than most other accounts.Read more
How civilised does an expedition base camp have to be?
Photographs of members of the Russian 7 Summits Club playing pool at base camp on Everest’s north side will have raised the blood pressure of a few purists who believe such luxuries have no place in mountaineering, but a bit of pampering at base camp has long been a part of expeditions to the 8000m peaks.Read more