The two great American kiss-and-tell K2 mountaineering books

March 25, 2026 Reviews and tributes 8000m peaks, first ascents, galen rowell, history of mountaineering, jim whittaker, jim wickwire, john roskelley, k2, karakoram, lou reichardt, lou whittaker, mountain literature, rick ridgeway 0 Comment

In the early 1970s, the slopes of K2 were still relatively untouched. Although Italians had first set foot on the summit, American climbers considered it to be their mountain. Two expeditions in 1975 and 1978 produced a pair of expedition books that were oozing with drama and intrigue.

Chillaxing on Cholatse: a return to Nepal

October 22, 2014 Expedition dispatches altitude junkies, ama dablam, cholatse, first ascents, galen rowell, history of mountaineering, john roskelley, nepal, training, trekking peaks, weather 3 Comments

Last year was the first since 2005 I didn’t go to Nepal, so in 2014 I’m making up for it by going twice. By the time you read this I will be heading to the Khumbu region to attempt 6440m Cholatse. It’s likely to be the hardest climb I’ve ever done.

When the mountain gods are angry

January 22, 2014 Reviews and tributes 8000m peaks, book reviews, broad peak, climbing fatalities, first ascents, galen rowell, gasherbrum, jon krakauer, karakoram, mountain literature, nanga parbat, pakistan 0 Comment

I’ve been pretty lucky with my adventures so far. Although they don’t always go according to plan I’ve never experienced a major disaster. I had a chance to reflect on this while I was sheltering in a mountain hut in Patagonia reading John Quillen’s account of his attempt on Broad Peak last year.