A chronological list of the 10 highest confirmed mountain summits ever climbed

A chronological list of the 10 highest confirmed mountain summits ever climbed

There are a lot of adjectives in the title of this post. What does it mean, precisely? There was a time in history when neither Everest nor the other 10 highest mountains in the world had been climbed. What was the highest mountain ever climbed back in those days? And what was the one before that? If you’re intrigued to find out then read on

Read more

Did George Mallory climb Everest in 1924? I asked ChatGPT for an answer

Did George Mallory climb Everest in 1924? I asked ChatGPT for an answer

There’s been a lot of hype about the new chatbot ChatGPT. If it can impersonate a real person, then it occurred to me that I could interview George Mallory and find out if he actually reached the summit of Everest in 1924. So I did, and here’s what happened.

Read more

The Ascent of Rum Doodle vs. The Ascent of Nanda Devi — how similar are they?

The Ascent of Rum Doodle vs. The Ascent of Nanda Devi — how similar are they?

Two of the best mountaineering books ever written were designed to be read side by side, but I wonder if anyone has. I set myself the challenge of reading alternate chapters of The Ascent of Nanda Devi by H.W. Tilman and The Ascent of Rum Doodle by W.E. Bowman.

Read more

Bill Tilman: Nepal’s very first trekking tourist

Bill Tilman: Nepal’s very first trekking tourist

A few weeks ago I wrote about the history of Nepal and how it came to open its doors to tourism. In the second post in this series I introduce you to Nepal’s very first trekking tourist, who was already a Himalayan veteran and an interesting character.

Read more

How civilised does an expedition base camp have to be?

How civilised does an expedition base camp have to be?

Photographs of members of the Russian 7 Summits Club playing pool at base camp on Everest’s north side will have raised the blood pressure of a few purists who believe such luxuries have no place in mountaineering, but a bit of pampering at base camp has long been a part of expeditions to the 8000m peaks.

Read more