The Denali concession: is it good for customer choice?

The Denali concession: is it good for customer choice?

The Denali guiding concession is up for grabs. According to the National Park Service it’s intended to provide a variety of mountaineering services of different prices and style. But is this true? I had a look at what the existing operators are offering.

Read more

Cholatse 11, Ama Dablam 0 (Everest arrested for streaking)

Cholatse 11, Ama Dablam 0 (Everest arrested for streaking)

If ever I used omens as a means of determining my next holiday destination, then it’s likely I would have spent this autumn sunning myself on a beach. Luckily I’m not superstitious, and my climb of Cholatse proved as happy and successful as an expedition can be.

Read more

Everest’s deadliest day – debating Everest’s future

Everest’s deadliest day – debating Everest’s future

Everest’s Deadliest Day was the title of a debate at the RGS in London last week, about the April avalanche and what it meant for the future of Himalayan climbing and the economy of Nepal. Here is my account and thoughts about the event.

Read more

Looking back on Everest as the dust settles

Looking back on Everest as the dust settles

Now that we’re beginning to understand what happened on Everest this year a little better, more recent articles on the subject seem to be more moderate in their approach. I thought it would be a good time to examine some of the things I’ve read more recently.

Read more

Is K2 the new Everest?

Is K2 the new Everest?

There were remarkable events on K2 this week, with record numbers of climbers reaching the summit. K2 is regarded as one of the hardest mountains in the world, but has it now become within the range of less experienced commercial climbers?

Read more

4 ways to improve the south side of Everest

4 ways to improve the south side of Everest

I’m going to finish my series of posts on this year’s Everest season on a positive note by looking at some possible ways forward for commercial mountaineering on Everest. The aim is not just to make the mountain safer but to improve the overall experience for all who climb it.

Read more

The cod science of Everest hate

The cod science of Everest hate

One thing every Everest climber has to get used to is hate written about them in the media. Sometimes the hate becomes so pervasive that it starts to resemble propaganda, and one particularly corrosive piece of propaganda concerning Everest has been cited frequently recently and needs to be challenged.

Read more

The Everest Base Camp summit meeting: an eyewitness account

The Everest Base Camp summit meeting: an eyewitness account

In April government officials flew into Everest Base Camp to meet with Sherpas who had issued demands after a fatal avalanche. Afterwards they issued a press release about the meeting that was misleading in a number of ways. Here is my account of the events I witnessed that day.

Read more

A mountain of deceit: introducing Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism

A mountain of deceit: introducing Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism

The government of Nepal made a number of announcements about mountaineering on Everest before and during the Spring 2014 season, which received widespread media attention. Here I examine some of the announcements and assess how successfully the government met their intentions.

Read more