An extraordinary case of mountaineering integrity

June 10, 2015 History africa, eric shipton, felice benuzzi, history of mountaineering, kenya, mount kenya, mountain literature, mountaineering ethics 3 Comments

With a drip feed of FIFA corruption allegations hitting the headlines, I’ve decided to use this week’s blog post to highlight a case of sporting integrity beyond the call of duty, and in doing so salute Italian mountaineers.

Everest 2014-15: A personal tale of two tragedies

June 3, 2015 Opinion and advice climbing fatalities, edita, everest, everest base camp, facebook, gasherbrum, history of mountaineering, media sensationalism, nepal, nepal earthquake, sherpas 2 Comments

Last year I was on my way into the Khumbu Icefall on Everest, and watched in horror as a huge avalanche took the lives of sixteen Sherpas. This year I watched from a distance as an earthquake put that event into perspective. Here is my personal account of witnessing both tragedies.

The house that can be carried on porter back

May 27, 2015 Good causes chance, dawa steven sherpa, emergency response, himalayan climate initiative, himalayas, nepal, nepal earthquake, porters 0 Comment

One of the best examples of Nepalese resourcefulness I’ve seen since the earthquake last month is the Himalayan Climate Initiative’s portable earthquake-proof house that can be carried to mountainous areas on porter back.

Colonel Jimmy Roberts and the first ascent of Mera Peak

May 20, 2015 History bill tilman, first ascents, himalayas, history of mountaineering, history of nepal, jimmy roberts, mera peak, nepal, sen tenzing, trekking, trekking peaks 1 Comment

Sixty-two years ago to the day Colonel Jimmy Roberts made the first ascent of Mera Peak with the Sherpa Sen Tenzing. This little postscript to the first ascent of Everest in 1953 may have been the birth of commercial trekking.

Aconcagua and a first taste of expedition life: an extract from my book

May 13, 2015 My books and writing acclimatisation, aconcagua, alex roddie, andes, argentina, book extract, seven steps from snowdon to everest, seven summits, travel writing 5 Comments

It’s time to update you once more on current progress with the book I’m threatening to publish about my journey from simple hill walker to Everest summiteer. Here’s the latest, along with a teaser from the book to try and convince you to buy it.

As climbers wring their hands about Everest, Nepal quietly rebuilds

May 6, 2015 Good causes asian trekking, chance, climbing fatalities, dawa steven sherpa, edita, emergency response, everest, everest base camp, himex, nepal, nepal earthquake, russell brice 3 Comments

While the climbing community were busy bickering about Everest, the Nepalese were quietly rebuilding their lives after the devastating earthquake. As trustee of a development charity I was given a privileged insight into what they’ve been up to.

Nepal earthquake: who should I donate to?

April 29, 2015 Good causes chance, community action nepal, disasters emergency committee, edita, emergency response, everest base camp, himalayan trust, himalayas, juniper fund, kathmandu, nepal, nepal earthquake, world food programme 5 Comments

People have been asking me to recommend a charity to help victims of the Nepal earthquake. It’s a difficult question, because it depends on personal preferences and priorities, but I know a little about Nepal, and though I’m no expert on disaster response, I’ll do my best to answer.

Remembering the avalanche: a tribute to all Sherpas

April 22, 2015 Reviews and tributes altitude junkies, climbing fatalities, dorje khatri, edita, everest, madison mountaineering, nepal, obituaries, sherpas 2 Comments

There’s no better way to mark the anniversary of the avalanche on Everest last year than by remembering one of the Sherpas who died. Here’s a post that is a tribute not just to him, but to all Sherpas who work the high mountains.

Trailblazing up Monte Sirente

April 15, 2015 Trip reports abruzzo, apennines, avalanche safety, edita, europe, hill walking, italy, monte sirente, sirente-velino 2 Comments

Our third trip to the Apennine Mountains took us to an area we hadn’t visited before. Our ascent of Monte Sirente was a good day out in the mountains, with some tough trail breaking through deep snow and an exhilarating climb.

5 steps to taking better mountain photographs

April 11, 2015 Humour mountain photography 11 Comments

I sometimes get asked for photography advice, including detailed questions about what equipment to use, tips on exposure, focal length and aperture size. I’ve answered the question a few times now, and in doing so have managed to distil my advice into just 5 easy steps.