My travel diaries
Yakking with the Thunder Dragon
Walking Bhutan's epic Snowman Trek. September/October 2009.
Imagine a land of no plastic bags, where smoking is illegal in every square corner, and people chew betel nuts to get their kicks instead, which leave them with comical red tongues that give the game away. Suppose the economic welfare of this land is measured not in Gross Domestic Product, but a commodity known as Gross National Happiness, and the state religion preaches non-violence, resulting in a surfeit of stray dogs that nobody has the heart to put down. Imagine a ruling elite so benevolent that the king stands down every 20 years to give his son a chance to have a go at reigning.
Supposing this remarkable land really existed, and that it happened to contain some of the most dramatic mountain landscapes in the world. I'd just have to go there to climb some mountains. Well,amazingly, it does - it's called Bhutan, and it nestles at the eastern end of the Himalayas, between the jungles of India and the desert plateaus of Tibet.
There's just two small problems with this mountain paradise. You're not allowed to climb any mountains because the inhabitants respect the mountain deities which live at the top of them, so you have to go trekking instead. And secondly, the country's yak population is among the most dangerous in the world, making trekking a hazardous business.
I decided to travel there and brave its feisty yaks. I was fortunate enough to have a group of Australians as my travelling companions just a couple of weeks after England had won back The Ashes, which was an added bonus. This is the story of my journey into this magical kingdom ...
CONTENTS
Monday 14 September, 2009 - Paro, Bhutan - Entry into another world
Tuesday 15 September, 2009 - Shana, Paro Valley, Bhutan - Rolling forests and ornate peasant houses
Wednesday 16 September, 2009 - Thangthangka, Paro Valley, Bhutan - Mirkwood
Thursday 17 September, 2009 - Jangothang, Paro Valley, Bhutan - Out of the forest and into mist
Friday 18 September, 2009 - Jangothang, Paro Valley, Bhutan - Scrambling up Jangothang Ri; elusive Jhomolhari
Saturday 19 September, 2009 - Lingshi Camp, Lingshi, Bhutan - First pass, the Nyile La
Sunday 20 September, 2009 - Chebisa, Lingshi, Bhutan - Lunch in a mediaeval village
Monday 21 September, 2009 - Yarila Chhu, Lingshi, Bhutan - Yak pastures, blue sheep, and pleasant green hillsides
Tuesday 22 September, 2009 - Robluthang, Laya, Bhutan - The rolling green hills of northern Bhutan
Wednesday 23 September, 2009 - Limithang, Laya, Bhutan - Over a bleak, windswept pass and into forest
Thursday 24 September, 2009 - Laya Village, Laya, Bhutan - Laya village – Bhutan’s northern metropolis
Friday 25 September, 2009 - Army Camp, Laya, Bhutan - Sheltering with the Royal Bhutan Army
Saturday 26 September, 2009 - Rodophu, Laya, Bhutan - Yaks – the initial warning; a pleasant mountain gorge
Sunday 27 September, 2009 - Narethang, Laya, Bhutan - Lush hanging valleys; hailstorm on a high plateau
Monday 28 September, 2009 - Tarina, Lunana, Bhutan - Gazing across a mountaineers’ paradise
Tuesday 29 September, 2009 - Tega, Lunana, Bhutan - Mort’s close encounter with Death
Wednesday 30 September, 2009 - Chozo, Lunana, Bhutan - A wide flooded valley and a beautiful village campsite
Thursday 1 October, 2009 - Chozo, Lunana, Bhutan - A grand ridge surrounded by mountain splendour
Friday 2 October, 2009 - Tsho Chena, Wangdue Phodrang Plateau, Bhutan - More yak madness; the high plateau
Saturday 3 October, 2009 - Jichu Dramo, Wangdue Phodrang Plateau, Bhutan - Crossing the vast highland plains
Sunday 4 October, 2009 - Tsho Tshang, Wangdue Phodrang Plateau, Bhutan - An unexpected proposal; dreams of chocolate
Monday 5 October, 2009 - – Thampe Tsho, Wangdue Phodrang Plateau, Bhutan - Eerie atmospheric forest and a day of mixed feelings
Tuesday 6 October, 2009 - Maurothang, Nikka Chhu Valley, Bhutan - Mist, rain, mud and beer
Wednesday 7 October, 2009 - Wangdue Phodrang, Bhutan - A soaking to rival all soakings
Thursday 8 October, 2009 - Thimphu, Bhutan - The world's strangest capital city?
Friday 9 October, 2009 - Paro, Bhutan - Ending on a high with a visit to the Tiger's Nest
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