A long overdue, heroic story of rescue high on Everest

A long overdue, heroic story of rescue high on Everest

We hear many stories of blame on Everest, but rarely stories of heroism. This isn’t because they don’t exist, but because the media prefer to focus on the negative. In this week’s post I do my bit to rectify this with the help of an old friend.

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Are western operators right to complain about cheap Nepali operators on Everest?

Are western operators right to complain about cheap Nepali operators on Everest?

Western operators say cheap Nepali operators who employ inexperienced Sherpas are making Everest more dangerous. There are two sides to this issue, and I will do my best to outline both as I provide the commercial client’s perspective.

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Cholatse 11, Ama Dablam 0 (Everest arrested for streaking)

Cholatse 11, Ama Dablam 0 (Everest arrested for streaking)

If ever I used omens as a means of determining my next holiday destination, then it’s likely I would have spent this autumn sunning myself on a beach. Luckily I’m not superstitious, and my climb of Cholatse proved as happy and successful as an expedition can be.

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Chillaxing on Cholatse: a return to Nepal

Chillaxing on Cholatse: a return to Nepal

Last year was the first since 2005 I didn’t go to Nepal, so in 2014 I’m making up for it by going twice. By the time you read this I will be heading to the Khumbu region to attempt 6440m Cholatse. It’s likely to be the hardest climb I’ve ever done.

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Exploring the Cordillera Blanca’s high altitude playground

Exploring the Cordillera Blanca’s high altitude playground

Peru’s Cordillera Blanca mountain range offers a veritable playground for the mountain lover, be they a trekker, alpinist or high altitude snow plodder, with glorious scenery and a range of different climbing. Here’s what happened when I went there last month.

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A return to the Peruvian Andes, in very different circumstances

A return to the Peruvian Andes, in very different circumstances

By the time you read this I will be in Peru, setting out in the hope of climbing its highest mountain, 6768m Huascaran. It’s been a long time coming. My one and only visit to Peru was when I walked the Huayhuash Circuit as a novice trekker in 2002.

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4 ways to improve the south side of Everest

4 ways to improve the south side of Everest

I’m going to finish my series of posts on this year’s Everest season on a positive note by looking at some possible ways forward for commercial mountaineering on Everest. The aim is not just to make the mountain safer but to improve the overall experience for all who climb it.

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Lhotse 2014: The world’s most expensive Everest Base Camp trek

Lhotse 2014: The world’s most expensive Everest Base Camp trek

The story of the Altitude Junkies 2014 Everest and Lhotse expedition. I was excited to be attempting 8516m Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world which stands across the South Col from Everest. Even if I didn’t reach the summit I would surely reach Camp 2 at least, as I had on every previous occasion.

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A last desperate bid for Everest glory … by helicopter

A last desperate bid for Everest glory … by helicopter

It’s been a terribly unhappy 2014 Everest season for many reasons, so here’s something to cheer us all up. We all thought the season on the south side of the mountain finished two weeks ago, but reports in the Himalayan Times have fuelled speculation that the Southeast Ridge may yet be climbed this year.

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